Camping in red-rock and desert country: water, heat, floods and fragile soil

Red-rock canyons, slickrock benches, high desert mesas and sage plains offer some of the most dramatic camping in the United States. They also bring hazards that forest camping does not, such as little water, strong sun, sudden floods, wind and temperature swings. Good preparation makes the difference between a trip you remember fondly and one you talk about for the wrong reasons.

Water

Water is the first concern. Many desert sources are seasonal, silty or undrinkable, and some are far from camp. National park and land-management guidance commonly advises carrying at least a gallon of water per person per day for drinking and cooking in hot desert conditions, and more for strenuous hiking or hot weather. Plan for emergencies by carrying extra, and know where you can refill. If you collect water from a source, filter or treat it, and let silty water settle through a cloth or pre-filter first.

Drink before you are thirsty, eat salty snacks and watch for signs of heat illness: headache, dizziness, nausea, confusion and a rapid pulse. Shade, rest and cool water help, and severe symptoms need emergency help.

Heat and sun

Summer highs in many desert areas pass 100°F. Plan hikes for early morning or evening and rest in shade through midday. Wear a wide-brimmed hat, long light-colored sleeves and sunscreen, and use sunglasses. Do not leave kids, pets or people in a closed vehicle. In extreme heat, choose a higher elevation or visit in spring or fall, when many people consider desert camping at its best.

Flash floods

Desert storms can send water down canyons and dry washes with little warning, even when the sky overhead is clear and the rain fell miles away. Flash floods are a serious hazard in canyon country.

• Never camp in a wash, a canyon bottom or a dry streambed. Camp on higher ground.
• Check the forecast before and during your trip, for the area upstream as well as where you are. In much of the Southwest, a monsoon season runs from roughly mid-June through September, with storms most likely in the afternoon.
• Know your escape route to higher ground.
• Do not cross flooded roads or washes. The saying is "turn around, don't drown."
• Watch for signs, such as a rising stream, muddy water, debris in the water or a roar upstream. Move to high ground immediately.

Protecting desert soil

In much of the Southwest, the ground between plants is covered in a living crust, called biological or cryptobiotic soil. It looks like dark, bumpy, crumbly dirt. This crust prevents erosion, holds moisture and supports plants, and it can take years to decades to recover from damage. A single footprint can destroy it. Follow the Leave No Trace guidance to travel and camp on durable surfaces.

• Stay on established trails and roads.
• Camp on slickrock, gravel, bare sand or existing sites, and avoid crusted soil.
• Do not build new fire rings or move rocks.
• Pack out everything, including food waste. Many desert areas require carrying out human waste.
• Respect cultural sites, such as rock art and ruins, which are protected by law. Look but do not touch, and do not climb on structures.

Wind and sand

Desert wind can flatten a poorly pitched tent. Pitch with the narrow end into the wind, use all guy lines, and choose stakes designed for sand and loose soil, or tie off to rocks and bury anchors. On slickrock, stakes do not hold, so a free-standing tent that you weight with water bottles or gear helps. Do not move rocks to build windbreaks, but use natural shelter where it exists. Keep your tent zipped to keep out sand, and store food and electronics in sealed bags.

Cold nights

Deserts can swing from hot days to cold nights, sometimes by 30°F or more, and high-desert nights can be freezing even in spring and fall. Pack a sleep system for the coldest night you may see. The sleep system guide and R-value picker can help you choose. Add a warm hat and layers, since the cold feels sharp after a hot day.

Wildlife and insects

Most desert animals avoid people, but a few deserve attention.

• Snakes and scorpions are active at night in warm weather. Shake out boots and clothing, use a headlamp when walking at night and do not put your hands where you cannot see.
• Ravens and rodents will raid unattended food, so store it in a sealed container or vehicle.
• Insects. Biting flies and mosquitoes can be bad near water in spring and early summer. Bring repellent and a head net if you are sensitive.

Fire and stoves

Wildfire is a serious concern in dry seasons, and restrictions are common. Many desert areas ban ground fires, so use a stove. If fires are allowed, use an existing ring, keep it small and put it out completely. Check current restrictions with the land manager before every trip.

Roads and vehicles

Dirt roads in red-rock country can turn to slick clay when wet and may become impassable, even for four-wheel drive vehicles. Check conditions, carry recovery gear and extra food and water, and tell someone your plans. Do not drive off established roads, which damages soil and is often illegal.

Gear notes

• Sun shelter. A tarp or shade structure is valuable on hot days.
• Tent. A sturdy tent with good ventilation and a rainfly that handles wind.
• Dry bags. Useful against blowing sand and sudden rain. See dry bags.
• Chairs and tables. Wide feet help on sand. See chairs.
• Navigation. Offline maps, a paper map and a compass.

Common mistakes

1. Carrying too little water.
2. Camping in a wash.
3. Walking on soil crust.
4. Using stakes on slickrock and watching the tent blow away.
5. Underestimating night cold.